Tuesday, May 14, 2019

「赤手登峰」是如何造就出来的!

Free SOLO - Movie Review 2 Watched again today! ( 18 5 2019)

Free Solo: How could Alex overcome Death Fear - Watched again to know more about his psychology, physical and mental strength, personality and family history, his love relationship and his value system. Will share in my workshop!

I have been always captivated by inspiring personalities.
Here is an excellent case for us to study personality psychology   An ordinary person with an extraordinary story.

 What is his personality?What can we learn from his life experiences?                                                                           


從真實的故事中探索人格


Exploring personality from real life stories. If you only have time watch one movie for the half year , this one is special , worth watching, a movie without scripts, not knowing where it would develop and is really authentic...


My Movie Review and Reflection

去年十月参观了優詩美YOSEMITE國家公園,在 El Captain Mountain,YOSEMITE的最有代表性的大石山留影紀念。聽說不久前有攀山家徒手爬上去了,我不敢相信。

Now I knew that that was just the Free Solo Climber -
Alex Honnold! The First person to ever free solo Climb El Captain!




期待已久的奧斯卡「最佳紀綠片」-「赤手登峰」 - 奧斯卡最佳紀錄片獎(2018年),今天,我終於完完整整的看了!很有亲切感,a sense of Wow and experiencing with Alex...

Just breathtaking,讓人幾乎透不過氣​​來 (和故事片沒有分別 - 更加真實!愛情,友情和熱情交織,真人徒手爬上直立3000英尺的巨峰完,驚險度N級!)!一個個驚心動魄的片段,犹如和Alex一起去經歷整個過程。我不知不覺緊閉牙關,一動不動的,戲院很冷,我竟然忘記了去袋裡拿衣服,害怕Alex Honnold Falling ...


事前幾乎看了大部分製作過程,導演和主角攀山家Alex 的YOUTUBE訪問和演講。

當時我這樣寫道:看了Alex徒手攀登EL Captain這座3000英尺直立高峰的視頻和的演講,為他的勇氣,挑戰自我而感動不已。

确实如此:鏡頭下每次指尖的擺放,每次腳步的轉移,也叫人觸目驚心。(Imax 效果更好)




由衷的感激National Geography 製作團隊給世界帶來這麼激勵人心的電影,documenting the process of turning impossible to possible 不可能變為可能的惊险過程。

由心佩服Alex,從童年到33歲的成長經歷,從painstaking的練習到成功爬上頂峰,一個如何戰勝心理恐懼,自我實現,追求生命價值的過程。





「赤手登峰」不是一般的紀錄片,而是不斷尋求自我突破的旅程,Self esteem building process 更是一個美麗的愛情故事,展現出互相尊重,理解,原諒,放手,to love is to set free.





在Alex之前,已經有幾位Free solo climbers 犧牲,
大部分也根本不敢想像如何赤手攀爬3000英尺的巨峰。

難道Alex不知道這是多麼的危險?

是什麼驅使他玩一場隨時可以粉身碎骨的死亡遊戲?是什麼personality造就他完成幾乎完美無缺的奇蹟?

這個紀錄片非常珍貴的地方是永遠不知道故事的發展,跟著Alex幾年,連導演Jimmy和其他攀山家也不知道過程中會有什麼事情發生,是一種passion,驅使Alex和他的好朋友做這件事,真實的反映每個人的成長過程,心理變化,心理質素和身體質素的training。

電影追隨到Alex的原生家庭和童年,他的蜕化、個性的演變:

童年與原生家庭

Alex可以說是生長在一個不完美的家庭,在他19歲那年,父母離婚,考上了Berkeley ,但他大部分課都沒有上,去了攀山,一年後,退學了。後來爸爸也離世。

Alex說,他最不想看到L字母,L stands for LOVE。因為,他童年是這樣的:

父親是個大學老師,患有輕度亞氏保加症Asperger syndrome和憂鬱症;媽媽是一位法文老師,作家,父母從來都沒有擁抱過他,沒有說一句I love you,沒有讚美過他。

爸爸小時候訓練他學習攀爬,對他非常嚴格。鞭策他完成一個比一個艱難的目標。

其中令我感動的是他沒有抱怨父母,雖然明白自己長期處於壓抑狀態,不懂表達愛,不會主動擁抱別人,連对着女朋友也不懂表達愛,這和他原生家庭影響有極大的關係。

Alex自小寡言、孤獨、對自己也要求嚴苛。從小就開始參加攀山比賽,拿獎無數,但他說:"I was never, like, a bad climber [as a kid], but I had never been a great climber, either," he says. "There were a lot of other climbers who were much, much stronger than me, who started as kids and were, like, instantly freakishly strong – like they just have a natural gift. And that was never me. I just loved climbing, and I've been climbing all the time ever since, so I've naturally gotten better at it, but I've never been gifted."

在interview 中,Alex年談到少時所遇到的心理挑戰, 比起爬上巨峰El Capitan更為兇險。

別人看來,這次free solo差不多是自殺,能夠攻頂,必須近乎完美,close to perfection, there is no room for error! 他必須跨越對死亡的恐懼,他是如何走過這條心理治療的道路?

原來他化童年陰影為力量,化死亡的恐懼為正向的推動力。

電影裡他表達對父親的深深的懷念,為爸爸不能看大他的成就感到遺憾。他說爸爸是他的Teddy Bear。一個不善於表達自己的人,在登峰的旅程中,慢慢成長,開始學習表達自己真摯的情感。

這令我再次感受到:人格是可以改寫的,而且是伴隨著生命的一個個突破,有時是不知不覺,有時是刻意改變自己,令自己變得更完整,更完美,彰顯了人類的無限可能性。


我恍然感悟:當你可以把導致你的童年創傷的家人都變成自己傾談的人,值得感恩的人,把他們都愛回來,你的生命道路就會順坦很多,少了這些心理障礙,你的潛能就可以發揮到無極境界!

死亡的恐懼變成提醒和動力

紀錄片是Alex心路歷程,大部分是他自己講敘如何跨越一個個心理和體力,環境的障礙,如何善用大自然,順勢,順自己的心,follow his heart,完成一個個壯舉,感受他是一个非常的谦卑,谨慎,有理智又勇敢,而且很有大爱。

他說:最大的恐懼來之自身。他想過,萬一失手,粉身碎骨,什麼都沒有了!

最大的動力源於這美麗、壯觀的El Captain巨石,他最大的temptation ,猶如一刻不可抗拒的磁石,無時無刻,多年來一直渴望徒手征服!

夢想的力量,可以那麼震撼!

I don't want to fall off and die either, but there's a satisfaction to challenging yourself and doing something well. That feeling is heightened when you're for sure facing death. If you're seeking perfection, free soloing is as close as you can get. And it does feel good to feel perfect, for a brief moment

No one really wants to die. Alex surely didn’t. However, he kept pushing himself.

https://www.jmlalonde.com/quotes-and-leadership-lessons-from-free-solo/

女朋友哭著說你有沒有想過那個剛剛犧牲的那個free climber ,他的太太是多麼的愛他,此時此刻是多麼的傷心。那就是我啊!





他不斷問自己,Free Solo climbing El Captain Rock 背後的價值在哪裡?

他說:他想過可能會死,但是,他還是覺得如果不去try,會令他失去更多,一個比生命更大的mission推使他去嘗試。

Alex得到家人的支持,特別是媽媽, 她說:這是Alex最喜歡,是他的passion,他的career。所以從來沒有阻止他,從沒有勸他放棄這麼這個死亡遊戲! !

他認為,訓練可以幫助他慢慢減小恐懼。

他幾年都紮營於Yosemite,無數次的攀山訓練,找到最好的途徑和最需要小心的地方。慢慢,他的自信心建立起來,他的攀山夥伴,都是他的心理和體力教練。給他好多寶貴的支持和鼓勵。慢慢他發現,其實別人眼中的死亡挑戰,也不是那麼恐怖的,而且是有方法征服的。




如何克服死亡的恐懼? 他說,人人都不想死,但恐懼是可以克服的!
Alex said, “I like to differentiate between risk and consequence
Many people see risk and consequence as the same thing. Alex doesn’t.
Risk is the likelihood of something bad happening. Consequence is the result of your actions.
They’re similar but different. Be willing to take risks. Be willing to live with the consequences.
You’re not stopping your fear. You move outside of it.

What he did was to move outside of the fear. He learned ways to sidestep the fear and keep going.

If there’s a legitimate fear in your leadership, deal with it. Learn how to recognize the fear, see what needs to be done, and then move around it.

Alex積極、正向的心理質素、極強的理性分析能力和健康的體魄,是他能夠享受自己攀越一個又一個不可能的高峰,達成夢想最重要的元素!

他的創舉告訴我們:

人可以很脆弱,當我們的心理脆弱;人也可以很堅強,當我們心理上堅強!人的潛能可以無限,當我們有正向的心理質素,
Positive Self Esteem

愛情、友情,生命的潤滑劑

Sanni McCandless的出現,是他人生重要的轉淚點。 Sanni 是一個善于直接表達自己的人,她對Alex从愛慕,好奇开始,到真摯的愛他,將Alex這個木頭人一般,彷彿沒有感情的動物溶解了,Alex開始學習擁抱,學習直接表達自己內心的感受,直接說出自己的心理狀態,他開朗許多!他的生活质素也改善许多,虽然大部分时间都住在车里。




Sanni 出現後他有兩次受傷的意外,一次是掉下30多米腳受傷,他想過和她分手,主要是怕分心,但最後沒有,我相信,是他太需要愛,也需要學習愛別人,愛,令他真正完整,完美。攀山,只是人生的一部分!

这对情人的價值觀很不同,Sanni覺得幸福很簡單,平平淡淡,安安全全,不需要創造什麼也可以很幸福;

Alex覺得,人生就是要做些事情,做些有挑戰性的事情才有價值。

他們在矛盾和分歧中互相尊重,磨合,成長。一個真真實實的愛情故事,每個人都是在改变自己。

連導演和photographer, cameramen都在成長,這些,一一在電影裡展現出來!

第一次徒手攀山,以為可以完成,但上了一半,他覺得自己狀態不好,看見山下圍觀的人,心理上有說不出的不安,於是,他放棄了!

他告訴夥伴和女朋友,他不想爬了。要好好想一想...他的伙伴沒有半點失望,反而支持他做的好!心理上沒有準備好,腳還帶著傷,這是非常正確的決定,不論今後還攀不攀這座巨石,都是好事!

退一步,是為了更大的進步!

They realize what’s working. They see what’s good or dangerous. And they make a choice to bail.

Don’t be afraid to quit. You will always have another attempt.

https://www.jmlalonde.com/quotes-and-leadership-lessons-from-free-solo/

他說:剛剛犧牲的那個free solo,最大的犯錯,是做了自己沒有100%有把握的事。

這是他心理準備一大躍進:他要做的是100%享受的事,100%有把握事。

他發現當日他的信心還是不足,有恐懼,不能完全享受攀山的過程,所以他尊重自己,退下!

他告訴拍攝team,“自己掉下來已經不擔心,擔心的是和我一起上去的你們,你們犧牲,我最不安樂”。

登峰去 - 无论是生是死,要找到完美


2018年九月一天晚上,他告訴女朋友,明天再次攀山到頂;半夜三點多,他叫女朋友離開了他几天,Alex 覺得這樣可以專心去爬,她也沒有那麼大壓力!她哭了,她不想失去他!

Sanni一個人開車走了,她在車裡哭了。



拍攝人員,都默默為Alex祈禱,也做好心理準備,這是一場死亡挑戰!可能見證Alex的犧牲,他們的壓力,特別是導演的壓力,真的好大!導演Jimmy ,中文名國威,說:最大的壓力,是不想拍攝到好朋友在自己的鏡頭里犧牲,但又要去做,很矛盾,他叫大家做好最坏的心理準備!

一位Cameraman簡直不敢去看鏡頭,不敢看ALEX攀爬的過程,但又必須看,心理矛盾,表露無遺。他說: enough is enough, no ​​​​more next time!

最後一部分,是電影的高潮,除了電影裡發出的聲音,全場一直是鴉雀無聲,全場觀眾都屏住呼吸,最驚險的部分,因為no more ropes, no more any safety gears!












由頭到尾三個多鐘頭,close to perfection,there is no room for error! 每一步,每一個借力點都完全掌握!

只要有任何差錯,石頭鬆脫,就會直落千尺,不論是一百尺,還是3000尺,都沒有分別,死路一條。

 當Alex克服了其中一個最困難的要點 - 大動作抱石攀越一個艱難的地段,並對著鏡頭正面掛上笑容時說: wow!大家都如釋重負,這次死亡沒有選擇了他。



登上巨峰,他的心情是怎樣?無言感激?

很奇妙的!觀眾和 production team 都鬆了一口氣! 

我沒有想到,紀錄片這麼精彩,可以和任何動人心弦的故事片比美! Alex的女朋友激動的哭了,我也跟著流下熱淚!





导演Jimmy看着好朋友Alex 成长, 成功,内心的喜悦难以形容



Alex Honnold Made History As The First Ever To Scale Yosemite And Its 3,000 ft El Capitan Mountain With No Rope Or Other Safety Gear

他的女朋友馬上打電話給他,心头的巨石落地,終於安全了,"I am so proud of you Alex! " 為他驕傲,為他極喜而下!

 Alex高興的不知如何表達,原來就這樣上來了? 連他自己都不敢相信!

他對女朋友說:I am really grateful for all  you've done for me!

"I am so happy!"




听他的YouTube访问,他說,free climbing是他的夢想,他已經爬了無數高山,給他極大的滿足感。他把恐懼作為提醒。他認為:心理訓練最重要。他用大量的自我催眠,visualization,imagination 提升心理質素。

I've done a lot of thinking about fear. For me the crucial question is not how to climb without fear-that's impossible- but how to deal with it when it creeps into your nerve endings.

How to overcome the uneasy feeling, people watching it and shooting the movie and his worry about others' life and death as well.



夢想的力量,自我催眠訓練,數年實地訓練,最後,他totally focus on each step, forgot death fear; 帶著智慧和信心,享受過程,3個多小時就爬到巔峰,美麗笑容,由心而發...

Free Solo 不僅時Alex Hornnold 的成功超越自我的故事,也是所有的陪伴者,他的媽媽,女朋友,好朋友,導演Jimmy, other climbers, production team和他一起成長的故事。

不知為什麼, 看了之後,電影的一幕幕驚心動魄的情景,特別是Alex平靜,沒有高低起伏的話語,面對死亡,坦然面對的狀態,一直在我腦海裡playing...

我眼中Alex的personality:

我感到:他是典型的完美主義者,也是典型的自我超越者,典型的理性思考者,更是一位大夢想家,一位踏踏實實,一步一個腳印的實踐家!

Alex的成長,personality人格的突破,告訴我們:個性不是兩三個特質可以描寫一個人的全部!人的個性是多面性的!是dynamic,keeping changing!就算是遺傳帶來的,原生家庭造成的,不少元素都可以改變,只要你覺得它是一個障礙,你想改變!

優質的個性需要自己去發掘,就算有多少美麗的遺產基因,也需要自己的努力,保留下來,發揚光大!

生長在不完美的家庭,Alex找到自己的人生方向,他的故事告訴我們:完美可以是結果,也可以是過程- 那就是將不完美變成完美,從中活出自己的價值和意義。

這就是self esteem building process

有一句話,不停在我心裡想起:

人最大的錯誤,是勉強自己做不太想去做的事情,可能是自己的身體的感覺,或自己心理上的反應 - 信心不大?興趣不大?或自己根本不喜歡去做。

Alex 忠於自己,時刻聆聽自己的聲音,自己的心理和身體狀態,確保自己做的事情,是自己passion,自己的夢想,彰显自己生命的價值,為自己的生命負責任。

這就是正向的自尊 - self esteem

令我非常surprise、印象深刻的還有兩件事:

Alex是一位非常慈悲的人,去到世界各地爬山,看到很多人沒飯吃、沒有乾淨的水喝,沒有電燈照明。於是,他將自己1/3的收入建立起基金會,In 2012, he started the Honnold Foundation, which "seeks simple, sustainable ways to improve lives worldwide", and is currently focused on promoting solar energy in the developing world


Alex大部分时间都住在VAN里,住在山里。還是一位素食者,他開始是為了環保,為了拯救地球,後來他發現身體可以適應,而且非常健康,素食者可以爬上EL CAptain巨峰,告訴我們,素食也可以很有力氣,有足夠的能量!




這個電影對我的影響;
1
聆聽自己內在的聲音,follow heart voice, do what I dream and love what I do.
2
思考自己的方向,夢想,really, nothing is impossible! Just do it if that is your dreams!
3
思考如何把自己的身體搞好,做更多自己喜歡的生命工作
4
更加明白建立正向的self esteem ,對於一個人的心理健康,身體健康重要性

What a Journey! What an inspiring, so great documentary movie!









Just like the producer said:

FREE SOLO ( The OSCAR AWARD ) is for everyone who believe in turning IMPOSSIBLE to POSSIBLE!


                                                        Director talk on the movie process
My recommendation:

if u only have time watch one movie for the half year , this one is an very special , worth watching, a movie without scripts, not knowing where it would develop and is really authentic...

Donna Wong
「赤手登峰」

我沒有想到,FREE SOLO紀錄片這麼精彩,可以和任何動人心弦的故事片比美! Alex的女朋友激動的哭了,我也跟著流下熱淚!



生長在不完美的家庭,Alex找到自己的人生方向,他的故事告訴我們:完美可以是結果,也可以是過程- 那就是將不完美變成完美,從中活出自己的價值和意義。

人格是可以改寫的,而且是伴隨著生命的一個個突破,有時是不知不覺,有時是刻意改變自己,令自己變得更完整,更完美,彰顯了人類的無限可能性。



https://www.donnadreamhypnosis.com/2019/03/personality-game_30.html

"Personality Game" 《個性遊戲》工作坊


反轉性格工作坊 - Personality Game (II)Inspiring personalities


The making of the Oscar-winning film ‘Free Solo’ | E:60


https://www.jmlalonde.com/quotes-and-leadership-lessons-from-free-solo/
Quotes  and saying

https://www.instagram.com/alexhonnold/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alex_Honnold

https://themennonite.org/the-quest-for-perfection/

https://theawesomedaily.com/alex-honnold-el-capitan-free-rope-solo-ascent/

14 5 2019

____________________________________________________

18 5 2019

Free SOLO - Movie Review 2 Watched again today!

Free Solo: How could Alex overcome Death Fear - Watched again to know more about his psychology, physical and mental strength, personality and family history, his love relationship and his value system.

Will share in my workshop!

I was tearful again. Some impressive scenes and new feeling, reflections popping up like flood popping up to my mind:

1 He didn't tell his mom about he was going to climbing the mountain that day until success because he didn't want his mother to worry him.

This reminded me of my son playing bungee jump in Macau at his 18 years old until he finished it.

Kids want to find his identity, their value in an adventurous way.

His mother was very open minded. SHe actually did persuade his son to give up as he knew he wouldn't, and that was his dream. Instead of discouraging, just support and praying for him.

Just support kids to pursue their dreams, that is the way to find their value, their identify.

2 Love relationship: Different attitude
Alex girlfriend thinks if she can make people happy, she is happy. Very simple. She learnt to compromise despite her worry soo much.

Alex thought he has to achieve The Most Dangerous Mountain in climbers hearts, this would be his most important thing, if successful, he would be delighted. He thought it was worth trying even the chance of falling and dying always there.

He is not crazy or irrational, he used visualization, imagination, positive thinking to step aside fears plus 4 years of practice. His psychological state, emotion state is superly well controlled due to his long term training - a truly self development process.

Taking the challenge on overcoming Death in free hand climbing the rocky mountain is the most attraction to him and drive as well.

3 Another drive - Family impact

Despite his father's depression, he was his mentor to train him to climb wall in the first place.

His Mother and father had poor relationship and divorced at his 19. Mother said Alex had no emotional connection with anybody.

She didn't want him to climb at first as it was too dangerous. Very understandable

Mother always said Alex was not good enough, never giving him any credit or praise. Alex dropped from Berkeley. His mother blamed his father that he didn't make children to develop their full potential.

Alex said this was part of reasons he determined to free soloing the mountain. He said, he was grateful he didn't give up his mind.

Alex wanted to prove he was not just good enough.

The passive and initiative motivation mixed together. He is always enjoying to do what he wanted to do, despite dangerous , risky and painstaking.

But he made it! Incredible!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtETNhI295k

https://www.donnadreamhypnosis.com/2019/05/yosemite-el-captainyosemite-2018-alex.html

I've done a lot of thinking about fear. For me the crucial question is not how to climb without fear-that's impossible- but how to deal with it when it creeps into your nerve endings.


Alex Honnold:

I like to differentiate between risk and consequence
Many people see risk and consequence as the same thing. Alex doesn’t. Neither should you.
Risk is the likelihood of something bad happening. Consequence is the result of your actions.
They’re similar but different. Be willing to take risks. Be willing to live with the consequences.

Reel in your emotions:

During one of his training climbs, Alex began to panic. He was feeling fear and unease about the climb.
Alex realized his feeling of fear was unfounded. He was as safe as he could be climbing. He had to reel his emotions in.
Leading is an emotional adventure. You have highs and lows. You have untold power over those you lead. Feeling fear can be an easy emotion to feel.
Yet you have to be careful in feeling fear. Or any other emotion. You can’t let your emotions dictate how you lead.
Leading requires you to set aside your emotions. To lead through fear.
This doesn’t mean you don’t feel emotions. This means you lead through them.


There’s a difference between physical and mental training:

Alex had to train in two different realms. The first was the physical. He had to be physically fit so his body could endure the endless climbing he would be doing. This was the easy training.
The difficult training came in the mental training. He had to train his mind to look past fear and nerves. He had to train to be fearless.
Leaders need to train like Alex did. They have to train their bodies. A physically fit leader is a healthy leader. A mentally fit leader is a great leader.
Work on both aspects of your life. You need to train your body and your mind. You can’t lead well when you’ve worked on only one of these areas of your life.
You’re not stopping your fear. You move outside of it.
There’s always going to be fear or doubt in your mind. Alex knew this. He also knew he had to overcome the fear he had of falling.
What he did was to move outside of the fear. He learned ways to sidestep the fear and keep going.

What if He Falls? The Terrifying Reality Behind Filming “Free Solo” | Op-Docs


Alex 徒手登上3200英尺的直立的花崗岩巨石山,有一個很重要的啟示給我:


要將不可能的夢想變成現實,過程中有70 %或以上的事情是瑣碎的,不喜歡的:如:
有數不清的內在恐懼和壓力,身體上的挑戰,與自己的原本個性Personality有矛盾,如愛情,如拍攝隊給他的壓力,人群圍觀, 身體的傷痛,或難以估計到。 ..。但夢想,渴望的那團火火,令他明白,這些困難都是他必鬚麵對的,而且是他的需要的,如愛和溝通學習。 .將阻礙的心態,被動,不情願的心態,變成積極的心態,享受的心態去一一轉化,克服。

他一步一步去克服心理恐懼和體力上的障礙,將這些不情願的,不自在的,沒有把我的,都變成自己可以掌控的,而且慢慢從中也學到享受。因為他要登上去!因為他看到達成渴望的價值更大!

因為沒有100%把握一定成功,而且死亡的機會不小。所以願意去經歷,去嘗試,去take risk 過程顯得更加重要,他的incredible experience告訴我,

1)困難不是問題,如何看待困難才是。
2)每一件成功故事的背後,都是一個自我個性改寫的過程,背後是信念和心理質素,自我價值感和self esteem的提升。

什麼是個性遊戲?看這個電影給我的感受,好深!


Alex 徒手登上3200英尺直立的花崗岩巨石山,有一個很重要的啟示:將不可能的夢想變成現實,過程中有70 %或以上的事情是自己不喜歡的,不情願的,不自在的,如何享受的去跨越,這是一個個性,信念和價值觀改寫過程
20 5 2019 update

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